Day 11 and 12: Innsbruck

When planning this trip months ago, I asked Dave if there was anything specific he wanted to do. He considered the area for several days, before replying: "Neuschwanstein". I guess he played some video game growing up that featured the castle, and he'd always wanted to see it in person.

Friday morning we left Munich with Sofie and Chris (squeezing into their compact European car) and drove two hours on winding country roads until we reached our destination. As Dave will tell you, Neuschwanstein was built by this powerful German king, who was also a recluse. He spent over a decade building the castle in a secluded region of the Alps. Dave likes to think if he had the money, he would enact a similar building. Unfortunately, the German king only lived in Neuschwanstein for 10 days before he died.

Neuschwanstein from below.

The castle is a tourist hot spot—there were literally hordes of people with selfie sticks everywhere. We arrived a little after 1:00 pm, and the next available tour time we could buy tickets for was after 6:00 pm. It was madness. Luckily, our group wasn't set on going inside Neuschwanstein, we mostly just wanted to gaze at it from a distance. Here are some of my favourite photos:

We took funny photos during the walk up to the castle

Dave playing king on the balcony

I asked Dave to take a photo of me in front of the castle courtyard...

Along the back of Neuschwanstein there's a trail you can take that leads you to a bridge, which has become a make shift viewing platform for the castle from a distance. It really was an incredible view—and inspired the Sleeping Beauty castle made by Disney!

Neuschwanstein from the bridge

After Neuschwanstein we drove another hour into Austria, to the small town of Innsbruck. Innsbruck is surrounded by mountains on all sides, with the Inns river running through its centre.

The village where we stayed in Innsbruck

We arrived around dinnertime, and walked into the city centre for Indian food—I was sooooo hungry I forgot to take a picture of it, sorry Al! After dinner we checked out a couple pubs and bars, before turning in for the night. Today, we had a relaxing morning (which is so appreciated when traveling a lot!) and then walked around the old town and saw Innsbruck's most famous site: the golden roof.

The golden roof was made in 1500 by an Austrian emperor.

Part of the old town in Innsbruck

An arch in Innsbruck

Dave trying to hide from the sun as we walked around

It was a really great but tiring day!

After dinner we packed up our stuff, and then drove two hours north to Salzburg, Austria: home of The Sound of Music! Tonight we're camping just outside the city, because tomorrow we're going canyoning! I don't really know what that means, but I'm sure I'll have some good stories for my next post.

Until then,
Heather

Day Ten: More Munich!

Preface: I don't have as many photos from yesterday because Sofie's boyfriend, Chris (an accomplished photographer), spent hours snapping candid shots on his DSLR camera. I can't compete with that level of commitment, but I can promise to share some of the photos Chris took once he uploads them to his computer.

It's morning in Munich. I'm sipping on the first really good cup of coffee I've had since arriving in Europe (I made it myself). A young accordion player is performing the same song on loop, as he has been for the past two hours. Christina and Joe just left to catch a train to the airport. It's sad, saying goodbye to friends (I won't see Christina again until she comes to visit in Australia), but it also makes you value the people in your life that much more.

Three girls working out our arms by carrying giant beers at Chinesischer Turm

The six of us spent yesterday walking the streets of Munich. We crossed the Isar river into the old town and explored churches, beergardens, street markets and pretzel stands. Out of all the cities we've visited so far, Munich felt the most like home—but this is likely because of the familiar company.

Outside the Residenztheater

We stopped for lunch at a cafe, and enjoyed cappuccinos on the outside patio. 

We ate some pretzels. Okay a lot of pretzels.

From the old town we headed north to the sprawling English Garden, a green space that stretches across the top of Munich along the Isar river. The Garden is full of three things: pigeons, beer gardens, and nudists. Yep. It turns out lots of old German men like to pass days in the sun lying fully nude—and frankly too close to the walking paths. 

We wove our way through the garden, before arriving at Chinesischer Turm (China Tower) that hosts an outdoor restaurant and drinking space. One of my good friends, Adrian, had recommended Chinesischer Turm to us, so we knew we had to check it out.

Even at mid-day on a weekday the space was bursting full of people. Tour groups rode by on bikes, families enjoyed time in the sun, and young people walked around enthusiastically with giant mugs of beer, foaming over the rims.

This 25 meter high tower marks Chinesischer Turm

Christina and I with our mugs of beer.

This stylish Bavarian in front of us in line had to be photographed.

We hung out at Chinesischer Turm until the sun started to set and it got cold. We then returned our mugs, collected our things, and walked back to our apartment. I had some work to do, and the group had an early morning ahead, so we stayed in last night, cooking dinner and enjoying each others company. 

Today, we head south to see the world famous Disney castle—Neuschwanstein.

Cheers,

Heather

Day Nine: Munich

Day nine started with a train ride.

We caught an early express train in Verona, destined for Munich, and settled in for the five hour journey northbound. I've decided that train rides everywhere look pretty much the same. Sweeping countrysides, looming mountains, and rivers criss crossing through farmlands and towns. Here are some of the views we were privy to:

Leaving the train station in Verona

Somewhere in the Italian countryside

Crossing Austria

This train ride came with a special addition: one of my best friends, Christina, and her brother, Joe, joined us part-way on our journey. Finally, people we could speak English to!

Christina and I on the train!

Joe passed much of the train journey in Dave's usual fashion: asleep.

Joe passed out on the train

While Christina and I enjoyed some beverages, and caught up on our respective trips so far.

A couple of radlers on the train to pass the time

Dave took some time to explore the possible advantages of the 1st class train car we accidentally-on-purpose snuck our way onto. Turns out, the fancy seats fold down into a vertical, bed like position. Pretty cool!

Dave testing out his first class seat

Five hours later, we arrived in Munich and enjoyed a lunch of (gasp!) McDonald's, before checking into our Airbnb in the east end of the city.

Dave rated German McDonald's a 7.5/10

Our Airbnb host, Carsten, was awesome! He was at the apartment when we arrived, and gave us lots of tips about things to do and see during our short stay in Munich. He also helped Christina and Joe figure out how to get to the airport at the end of their stay, and gave us tips about street parking and local transit.

And then came Sofie!

Sofie is one of my best friends: until April she was living in Toronto, but she has since returned to her hometown of Vienna, Austria. When she heard we were planning a meet-up in Munich, Sofie and her boyfriend Chris, made the four hour drive to join us.

Christina, Sofie, and I: best friends reunited!

Sofie and Chris also brought a bunch of Bavarian beer for us to try, so we set up our own mini tasting session and went to town.

Bavarian beer tasting.

Dave's head for scale. Note: Dave has a very big head

For dinner we went to Wirtshaus an der Au, a traditional beer garden and restaurant near our Airbnb that our host recommended. It was a funky, pub-like place, with a warm and homey feel. The waitresses wore long traditional garb, and I spent most of the evening expecting them to break out into The Schuhplattler (a traditional Bavarian dance) at any moment.

Cheers at Wirtshaus an der Au

I had delicious vegetarian dumplings for dinner

Dinner consisted of sausages, dumplings, and more beer to go around. We put Sofie and Chris to work all night, asking them to translate and describe menu items before ordering, but in the end their hard work payed off as everything tasted great!

Today, we will enjoy another day exploring Munich and taking advantage of the washer/dryer in our Airbnb: the laundry situation has gotten a bit desperate on Dave and I's end.

If anyone has any must-dos in Munich, please leave them in the comments.

Cheers,
Heather

Day Eight: Verona

This morning we woke up to snow.

Really, snow. I took a screen capture of the weather report on my phone as proof. My app (Weather Puppy—the best weather app) predicted a light snow all morning, with a high of 12 degrees, around midday. Needless to say, it was time to leave the Swiss Alps.

Light snow is still too much snow in August

After checking out of our hotel, we caught a bus in Breuil-Cervinia to Châtillon, where we changed buses and headed to Turin. From Turin, we boarded a trail for Verona, via Milan, which would be our final destination of the day. We made the mistaking of not eating lunch during our brief stop in Turin, which led to a long, hungry train ride for both Dave and I.

Dave rocking his Canada tee in the Turin train station waiting for our train

One thing about Europe that both Dave and I have observed, is that they're way more pet friendly. Almost all the hotels we've stayed in so far have welcomed dogs. We've dined alongside many puppy friends on restaurant patios, and even have spotted some canine friends in grocery stores and pharmacies along the way.

We had the pleasure of enjoying our trip to Turin alongside this pretty kitty for over three hours on the train. The cat seemed pretty content the entire time, and used being transported by rail.

A cute kitty we met along the way

After arriving in Verona we checked into our hotel, and then took to the city streets to take in the authentic Italian culture (and in search of a snack!). Here are some of my favourite shots from our brief walk around the city:

The Piazza Brà in Verona, Italy

A sculptor in front of the Arena di Verona

Dave in front of the Arena di Verona

Taken on the Ponte Navi in Verona, Italy

For dinner we had... pizza (gasp!). When in Italy, eat as Italians do, right? To accompany our pizza I suggested we share a bottle of wine, to which Dave agreed. But, when the waiter came to open the bottle and poured a tasting amount in Dave's glass, he looked at me totally confused.

"Try it," I prompted him. He did, and I confirmed the wine was okay to pour. This is my long winded way of saying: Dave had never ordered a bottle of wine in a restaurant before and the practice completely baffled him (much to my delight). Dave then became obsessed with the practice of "trying" food and drinks before agreeing to them, and asked me if I thought he could "try" some of his pizza when it came, before committing to it. I discouraged this idea.

Our bottle of wine with dinner (a local Italian blend)

Dave with his very proud glass!

Our pizza! Mine was veggie, Dave's was covered with cooked prosciutto.

After dinner we enjoyed the walk back to our hotel with gelato in hand—when in Italy, right?

Extra dark and raspberry flavoured gelato

When Dave pitched Verona as a stopover on our trip many months ago, he told me he'd read it was like Venice, but without all the people. While this is true, I have to say from my short time in the city, Verona has been nothing short of magical. I love the winding cobblestone streets, I love the river curving across the town, I love the shopping corner and the covered markets and the Italian delicacies on every corner. I can't wait to come back here.

But tomorrow, we move on: to Munich!

Until then,
Heather

Day Six and Seven: Breuil-Cervinia

We spent the last two days in the shadow of the Matterhorn. The town of Breuil-Cervinia on the Italian side of the Alps reminds me a lot of Whistler, or Blue Mountain. It's full of small, pedestrian-only cobble stone streets, lined with pubs, alpine ski outfitters, and tacky tourist shops.

The Matterhorn, known in French as Mont Cervin, is the 12th tallest peak in Europe, stretching over 14,000 feet into the sky. The surrounding mountains provide a popular tourist destination for biking and skiing enthusiasts all year round. While enjoying a pint of Heineken on an outside patio yesterday afternoon, Dave summed it up best, by saying: "I don't love skiing, but I love the skiing lifestyle." I couldn't agree more.

This morning, after enjoying a leisurely breakfast of Nutella on toast, Dave and I set out for the gondola to take us up the mountain, in search of a panoramic view of the Matterhorn. We took three separate cable cars, each ascending to an increasing altitude, and giving way to incredible views. Here are some of my favourite shots for the journey:

Gondola #1 from Breuil-Cervinia to Plan Masion

Gondola #2 from Plan Maison to Cime Bianche

Gondola #3 from Cime Bianche to Plateau Rosa

When we got to the top, at 11,400 feet, we were rewarded with outstanding views. And snow! Turns out, if you ascend high enough, you can find snowy slopes in the middle of August. The valley of Breuil-Cervina offers year-round skiing for those interested in seeking frosty runs even in the height of summer.

At the top of Plateau Rosa, 11,400 feet in the sky

Snow in August at the mountain peak!

The Matterhorn towers over the valley of Breuil-Cervinia

3,480 metres = 11,400 feet (The highest I've been on land!)

Skiers enjoying the snowy afternoon at the peak of the mountain

After enjoying a late lunch in Plateau Rosa, we descended back down the way we came. Let me tell you, as someone with a natural fear of heights, the going down was not an easy course. As our gondola swayed in the wind, I kept asking myself (over and over again) what are the mechanics behind gondolas... really? Do I trust this cable not to get dislodged from the giant wheel? We made it down the mountain, naturally, but my trust in these mechanics ends there.

I spent most of the ride down the mountain in this position

Another thing I wanted to share, was the experience I had in the bathroom at one of the gondola stops on the way down. This was the toilet I was instructed to use:

Um, what?

Italy, how is this better than a regular toilet that's, let's say, elevated from the ground? I left this bathroom experience (with a full bladder) and many, many questions.

We spent the evening back in Breuil-Cervina, dining at a traditional Italian restaurant that served up the best pizza in town (according to Dave's research via Trip Advisor). The portions were huge, the wine was delicious, what more can you ask for?

I only got through half of my pizza—the serving was giant!

Dave's decided he's obsessed with egg topping on pizza—carbonara, it's called. Not sure if this is a thing back in Canada, but if not, we should get on it. It's a delicious combination.

Tomorrow we're officially leaving the Swiss Alps behind after 5 blissful days in their shadow and heading to Verona for more Italian culture—and hopefully more yummy pizza and wine.

Until then,
Heather