Day 29: Flåm

On Day 29 we drove north to Flåm, a tiny village in Flåmsdalen, at the inner edge of the Aurlandfjorden. The village sits at 61st parallel north, which brings the phrase "North of 60" to mind, thanks to a childhood spent watching the CBC. For reference, in Canada the 60th parallel constitutes the mainland boundary between the three northern territories and BC, Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba. Meanwhile, Toronto is sitting cozy at 43.40 degrees north, Vancouver at 49.13, and Edmonton at 53.34. Dave and I talked about this during the drive, and we both agreed that Flåm would be the furthest north we'd ever been.

Each drive through Norway is breathtaking

We left Odda a little after 11:00 am and were keen to power through the quick 2.5 hour drive to Flåm. Of course, because of our eagerness, we were stopped 30 minutes into the drive by a nice highway worker who informed us the road was closed until 12:45 pm, due to construction. Undeterred, I asked Dave to look up an alternate route. Turns out alternate routes aren't really a thing in Norway, and the detours Google suggested would add 2+ hours to the trip. Perturbed, we accepted out fate and sat in the car for a little over an hour and waited. To the construction teams credit, at 12:45 pm on the nose the road cleared and the line of waiting vehicles was able to drive through.

In spite of the delay, we arrived in Flåm just before 3:00 pm making good time. We checked into our hostel, changed into warmer clothes, and then made our way down the to docks for the days main event: a fjord safari!

It turns out Flåm is a popular destination for cruise ships

We've spent much of our time in Norway driving along fjords, hiking the the edge of them, and generally admiring them from afar. But today I was excited to enter the narrow rivers and see them from below: the most dramatic perspective.

Dave suited up!

We booked the fjords safari through Fjord Tours, and were greeted by our friendly guide, Jonathan, on the dock. He went over a short safety briefing with our group, and then instructed us to "suite up". This meant: toques, gloves, goggles, a life jacket and a full florescent safety suite. Once we were all dressed in matching gear, we made our way into the small rib boats waiting in the harbor. For the next three hours, Jonathon showed us around the Aurlandfjord, the Sognefjord and the Naerøyfjord, the latter being a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site and the number one natural heritage site according to the National Geographic Society.

Here are some photos, which only begin to capture the magic of the place:

 

Two hours later, our guide pulled the rib boat in to dock in the little town of Undredal, a cozy settlement on the water's edge, where 60 people and 500+ goats live. Not surprisingly, Undredal is known for its goat cheese production, and we had the chance to meet a local farmer, learn about their cheese production process, and taste some of the goods.

The Undredal farmer who taught us about their goat cheese production process

Local cheese and jams for tasting

Their specialty is a brown cheese, which is made by removing the curds from the goats milk, and then caramelizing the remaining whey over several hours to create a cheese that takes on a caramel colour. We also got to taste several local jams, made from berries I had never heard of before, and can't remember the names of.

After eating our full of goat's cheese and jam, we returned to the rib boats and made our way back to Flåm. On our guide's recommendation, Dave and I enjoyed a pint at the local microbrewery, Aegir Bryggeri, before returning to our hostel to get some work done. And just like that, there's only one day remaining before our journey to Australia. The last stop on our Norwegian trip is Bergen: famous for it's fish market and colourful houses.

Until then,
Heather

Day 27: Drive to Odda

Today was another day spent driving through the Norwegian countryside. Driving in itself feels like a treat in this country: we crossed fjords on narrow bridges, swept around rock cliffs at startling speeds, plunged through tunnels carved deep in the rocks, and saw more sheep than people on the way. Here are some shots from the journey:

The gorgeous view we woke up to this morning

The awesome rental car we've been driving across Norway

Just one of the many breathtaking views along the way

Dave not so sure about this roadside stop

Along the drive we came across Låtefossen, a 165 meter tall waterfall

All smiles in front of the waterfall

We arrived in Odda a little after 4:00 pm and checked into the Trolltunga Guesthouse, a modern apartment complex off highway 13. After staying in hostels for a couple days, we were so excited to have access to creature comforts again. Within the first hour of arriving, Dave was streaming the Jays game and had two loads of laundry on the go.

For dinner, I took over the kitchen, eager to enjoy a home-cooked meal after more than three weeks of restaurants and fast food. Dave had requested a lasagna (his favourite) but the only open grocery store was out of lasagna noodles. (Sidenote: Sunday shopping is something Europe needs to adopt from North America, stat.) Alas, I aim to please, so I whipped up a "deconstructed lasagna" instead, which consisted of homemade meat sauce, chopped veggies, noodles, and cheese.

Dave's deconstructed lasagna

We're staying in Odda for two nights to take advantage of the awesome hiking in Norway's two national parks, each just a short drive away. From here, we'll circle back north to Bergen to drop off the car, and then fly to Australia via London (where the real fun will begin!). But, I'm getting ahead of myself. We have three days left in Norway, and we're going to make them count.

Tomorrow's goal: touch a glacier.

Until then,
Heather

Day 26: Hike to Pulpit Rock

It might sound silly, but Dave and I came to Norway on a whim. While exploring potential European destinations to cap off our month on the continent, I stumbled across a photo of Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) and knew I had to see it for myself. We rearranged our travel plans that night, and booked our flights the next day.

Lonely Planet has ranked Pulpit Rock as one of the top ten most beautiful natural sights in the whole world. Each year, over 200,000 tourists hike the 4 kilometres along the Lysefjorden to reach Pulpit Rock and take in the view.

Ferry dock in Lauvvik

Dave getting ready to board the ferry in Lauvvik

This morning I woke up in Stavanger giddy with excitement—it was the first time all trip that I was ready to go before Dave. Just before 9:00 am we checked out of our hotel, repacked the car, and then hit the road. We followed highway 13 as it twisted and turned, to the small town of Lauvvik, where we boarded a ferry to Oanes. From there, we continued on highway 13 north-east, until we reached the turn off for Preikestolen.

Preikestolen = Pulpit Rock in Norwegian

The hike to Pulpit Rock is four kilometres out and back, making it 8 kilometres total. Everything we read told us to give ourselves lots of time—at least 4 hours. This seemed generous, even accounting for variable levels of fitness, but as soon as we stepped on the trail we understood why. The trail was absolutely rammed with people: it seemed everyone and their grandparent, kid, dog and baby had decided to make the trek to Pulpit Rock today. 

Dave leading the way on the hike to Pulpit Rock

We were never more than 20 feet from another person the entire hike

Dave and I spent most of the ascent dodging and weaving around families, which meant we absolutely flew up the mountain. The crowds thinned a bit the further up we went, but I was impressed by the general stamina and determination of those around us. I saw more dogs and babies at the top than I ever would have bet on.

We reached the summit of Pulpit Rock trail just after 12:00 pm, 70 minutes after leaving the parking lot (four hours, take that!) At the top, Dave admitted he had been keeping track as we went, and only one person passed us the whole way.

We, by comparison, must have passed at least 500 people!

The view from the top was stunning, as could be expected. Pulpit Rock was formed 10,000 years ago by glaciers. As the glaciers melted, the rock face split off in sharp, even chunks, giving Pulpit Rock its distinctive look. The rock itself is 25 x 25 meters, which gave people lots of space to take selfies, dangle their legs—and for those very brave—peer over the edge and take in the sheer drop down.

Approaching Pulpit Rock from the trail

Dave on Pulpit Rock

On Pulpit Rock, looking Eastward

Dave was a daredevil and peered over the edge!

After taking the obligatory photos on Pulpit Rock, we retreated further up the rock face, to relax and enjoy the lunch we had brought with us.

Pulpit Rock from above

Above Pulpit Rock with fjords in the distance

The descent back down from Pulpit Rock was less manic, as Dave and I agreed to go more slowly and take in the view of the Lysefjorden, which follows the trail on the south side for much of the way. We were lucky to have blue skies and sunshine as the backdrop for the entire hike: many people aren’t as lucky, as the weather in Norway is notably unpredictable and rain often dims the views.

We made it back to our car a little before 4:00 pm, which means the entire trip took us about 5 hours—but we spent quite a long time relaxing at the top.

For tonight, we are staying at the Preikestolen Fjellstue, a modest restaurant and lodge located at the base of the hiking trail on Lake Revsvatnet.

Tomorrow we drive North, to Trolltunga!

Until then,

Heather

Day 25: Bergen to Stavanger

This morning at 6:51 am our train pulled into Bergen Central Station, on the west coast of Norway, after traveling nearly 500 kilometres from Oslo overnight. As it turns out, sleeping on the train isn't as comfortable as they make it seem in the movies. All night the sleeping car swerved in and out of mountain peaks, and I couldn't shake the feeling I was on a rollercoaster about to loop-de-loop. 

Nonetheless, we arrived, bleary-eyed and not-so-bushy-tailed in Bergen, where it immediately began pouring rain. From Bergen, we picked up our rental car (a BMW 3 series - and yes, it's automatic), stopped at McDonald's for breakfast, and then started driving south towards Stavanger, our stop for the evening.

It was a boring day, as days spent confined to a car often are. But the views were stunning nonetheless. We traveled along the North Sea for most of the day. We took two separate ferries and navigated over 60 roundabouts. We plunged through tunnels up to eight kilometers long. We crossed bridges, rounded mountains, and crested fjords all in an afternoon.

Here's a short compilation of shots from the drive. It doesn't capture Norway's beauty, but I hope it gives you a glimpse of what we saw today:

Days 23 + 24: Oslo

The Oslo Opera House overlooking the North Sea

Tonight we're traveling by overnight train from Oslo to Bergen, the two largest cities in Norway. I'm writing this post from the top bunk in our sleeping cabin, while Dave works on his computer in the bunk below. The outside window of cabin is open, and the rattle of the train mixed with the howling of the wind is oddly comforting, as we cut across the heart of Norway at top speed.

Our first glimpse of Norway from the plane

After touching down in Oslo international airport a little after 5:00 pm yesterday evening, we had just 30 hours to explore everything the city had to offer. Dave fell in love instantly with the overcast skies and pale complexions of each passer by.

Dave all smiles at the Oslo Opera House

We checked into our hotel yesterday evening and immediately set out in search of dinner. Norway is famously expensive: a fact we were both very aware of before arriving. While doing research for our trip, a quick Google search led me to the "Cheap Eats Guide to Oslo" which turned out to be insanely helpful. Not even kidding, we hit up 4 of the 12 restaurants listed during our short stay in Oslo (and they were all fantastic!)

Thai food from Rice Bowl, in Oslo city centre

It turns out, Norway is known for having the best Thai restaurants in all of Europe. I can't imagine why this is, but I absolutely believe it as there were Thai and Asian restaurants on every corner of the city. We opted to go to Rice Bowl last night, for traditional Thai cuisine, thanks to the Cheap Eats recommendation. The meal was one of the best I've had in a long time and I would recommend Rice Bowl to all Thai lovers who may find themselves in this part of the world.

Oslo cranes at dusk

The North Sea

Follow me to the land of the midnight sun

After dinner we took advantage of the daylight, and walked a little ways to the famous Oslo Opera House, which sits on the shore of the North Sea. The Opera House is unique in its design, as it has a slanted roof that encourages passers by to walk, climb, crawl, and skip along its surface (just no skateboarding!) The sun was just starting to set, and Oslo glowed reverently in the dusk light, as we stood on the roof of the opera house and took in the sweeping views.

The Oslo Royal Palace

Dave and I outside the Oslo Palace

This morning, we checked out of our hotel and left our bags with the concierge, eager to make the most of our time in Oslo. It rained on and off throughout the day, but that didn't deter us from walking the streets of the city. We followed Karl Jonahs Gate, the main walking street, from the Oslo train station to the Royal Palace and Gardens, located just west of the city.

Later, when the rain picked up, we decided to check out Oslo Mekaniske (another recommendation from the Cheap Eats list). Mekaniske is a hybrid café-meets-pub, tucked away in the east quadrant of the city just across the Akerselva River from the city centre. I loved the vibe of Mekaniske: the inside was full of comfortable furniture, crowded in between coffee tables and bookshelves. In spite of the rain, two tall wooded doors were opened wide, leading the way to a sprawling covered patio dotted with locals bent over in quiet conversation. We opted for indoors, and lounged on velvet couches in the back corner of the pub, where we played many games of chess by candle light, and sipped on pints of beer.

Inside Mekaniske

I loved everything about the decor inside the pub

Chess and matching pints

Afterwards, we retrieved our bags from our hotel, and made our way back to the train station, to catch the overnight express to Bergen. The train departed Oslo a little after 11:00 pm, and we should arrive in Bergen just before 7:00 am tomorrow morning. From there, we're renting a car for the rest of our travels.

Oslo, I'm sorry our time together was so short, but you were nothing short of magical.

Onward to Bergen in the night we go.

Cheers,
Heather

Day 22: Vienna

Two weeks with this girl was absolute bliss

Ah, Vienna. The land of Mozart, coffee houses, and the famous Danube River. After criss crossing the country for 10 days, it was only fitting that the conclusion of our time in Austria was spent in the heart of all things. Vienna is truly the crown jewel of Austria: for lovers of art, history, politics, and music, there's no where else that measures up.

Old meets new on the edge of the Danube River

I spent my last day in Austria touring the streets of Vienna with Sofie as my personal guide. We crossed Vienna on foot, starting in the city centre and eventually making our way around the famous "ring" that marks the city limits. We explored the museum district, the University of Vienna, and the Mariahilfer Straße—a famous shopping street—all before taking a quick break for lunch.

St. Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna

Great artwork at the House of the Sea

Outside another beautiful church in Vienna

After lunch, we were joined by Sofie's boyfriend Chris, and the three of us wandered through Naschmarkt—an outdoor market, bursting with international flair and flavour. From Naschmarkt we continued on to the Belvedere Museum, which is a gorgeous 17th century palace, surrounded by a well kept public garden that's full of winding gravel paths and carefully trimmed trees.

I'm obsessed with these lights!

Outside the Belvedere Museum

A little after seven, we settled in for dinner on a casual outdoor patio that was decked out with cozy living room furniture and rustic benches. As it got dark out, faerie lights strung overhead flickered on: summer ambiance at its best.

Chris and I enjoying the indoor furniture outside

I love this girl to pieces!

It was bittersweet saying goodbye to Austria: Sofie and Chris were generous hosts and tour guides, and it was amazing to be able to spend almost two full weeks getting to know their home country so intimately. But of course, all good things must come to an end, and anyway, Dave and I were ready for the next part of our big adventure... Scandinavia!

The next blog post will be coming to you from chilly Oslo.

Until then,
Heather