Saturday, August 27, 2016

Day 26: Hike to Pulpit Rock

It might sound silly, but Dave and I came to Norway on a whim. While exploring potential European destinations to cap off our month on the continent, I stumbled across a photo of Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) and knew I had to see it for myself. We rearranged our travel plans that night, and booked our flights the next day.

Lonely Planet has ranked Pulpit Rock as one of the top ten most beautiful natural sights in the whole world. Each year, over 200,000 tourists hike the 4 kilometres along the Lysefjorden to reach Pulpit Rock and take in the view.

Ferry dock in Lauvvik
Dave getting ready to board the ferry in Lauvvik

This morning I woke up in Stavanger giddy with excitement—it was the first time all trip that I was ready to go before Dave. Just before 9:00 am we checked out of our hotel, repacked the car, and then hit the road. We followed highway 13 as it twisted and turned, to the small town of Lauvvik, where we boarded a ferry to Oanes. From there, we continued on highway 13 north-east, until we reached the turn off for Preikestolen.

Preikestolen = Pulpit Rock in Norwegian
The hike to Pulpit Rock is four kilometres out and back, making it 8 kilometres total. Everything we read told us to give ourselves lots of time—at least 4 hours. This seemed generous, even accounting for variable levels of fitness, but as soon as we stepped on the trail we understood why. The trail was absolutely rammed with people: it seemed everyone and their grandparent, kid, dog and baby had decided to make the trek to Pulpit Rock today. 

Dave leading the way on the hike to Pulpit Rock
We were never more than 20 feet from another person the entire hike
Dave and I spent most of the ascent dodging and weaving around families, which meant we absolutely flew up the mountain. The crowds thinned a bit the further up we went, but I was impressed by the general stamina and determination of those around us. I saw more dogs and babies at the top than I ever would have bet on.

We reached the summit of Pulpit Rock trail just after 12:00 pm, 70 minutes after leaving the parking lot (four hours, take that!) At the top, Dave admitted he had been keeping track as we went, and only one person passed us the whole way.

We, by comparison, must have passed at least 500 people!

The view from the top was stunning, as could be expected. Pulpit Rock was formed 10,000 years ago by glaciers. As the glaciers melted, the rock face split off in sharp, even chunks, giving Pulpit Rock its distinctive look. The rock itself is 25 x 25 meters, which gave people lots of space to take selfies, dangle their legs—and for those very brave—peer over the edge and take in the sheer drop down.

Approaching Pulpit Rock from the trail
Dave on Pulpit Rock
On Pulpit Rock, looking Eastward
Dave was a daredevil and peered over the edge!

After taking the obligatory photos on Pulpit Rock, we retreated further up the rock face, to relax and enjoy the lunch we had brought with us.

Pulpit Rock from above
Above Pulpit Rock with fjords in the distance
The descent back down from Pulpit Rock was less manic, as Dave and I agreed to go more slowly and take in the view of the Lysefjorden, which follows the trail on the south side for much of the way. We were lucky to have blue skies and sunshine as the backdrop for the entire hike: many people aren’t as lucky, as the weather in Norway is notably unpredictable and rain often dims the views.

We made it back to our car a little before 4:00 pm, which means the entire trip took us about 5 hours—but we spent quite a long time relaxing at the top.

For tonight, we are staying at the Preikestolen Fjellstue, a modest restaurant and lodge located at the base of the hiking trail on Lake Revsvatnet.

Tomorrow we drive North, to Trolltunga!

Until then,
Heather

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