Day Five: Hiking Grande Chenalette

As my alarm sounded this morning I rolled over in bed and opened my eyes against the harsh dawn light. My gaze drifted lazily towards the small north-easterly window in our hotel room and my eyes adjusted slowly to take in the morning view. Outside the window a mountain stretched into the sky, its peak disappearing in the low hanging clouds. After yesterday's fog and rain the clear blue sky looked dazzling in the early morning light.

"I bet we could climb that," I murmured, off hand to Dave still half asleep.

And so we did.

We checked out of our hotel room promptly at 11:00 am. After which, we asked the friendly receptionist to hold our bags for a few hours, stopped into a local store for last minute supplies, and then found the trail head behind the monastery. Twenty minutes later we were on our way hiking up the Grande Chenalette.

The Grande Chenalette trail head in Bourg St. Pierre

Switzerland ranks all mountain and alpine hikes on a T1-T6 difficulty scale, with T1 equating to valley hikes, and T6 meaning difficult alpine hikes. The first 3/4 of the hike up Grande Chenalette, to the initial lookout, was ranked as a T2. It was a gentle incline, with lots of switchbacks and wide gravel trails, which made adjusting to the higher altitude easier. By the time we reached the rest area we were feeling pretty good and eager to keep going.

The next section of the hike was classified as T4, and was definitely a bigger test of our wits and our alpine skills. We had to grip, climb, slide and hop along cables, ladders and bolted in chains. At one pass, that stretched nearly vertical along the mountainside, I clung to the mountain and took deep breaths, willing myself not to look down. This was all made ten times scarier during the descent that would follow, but I think you get the picture.

Bolted-in-cables for hand holds

One of the ladders that assisted with our climb

All our hard work payed off minutes later when we reached the summit of Grande Chenalette at 9,500 feet. Twin Swiss and Italian flags marked the summit and the divide between both countries. The Swiss Alps stretched before us in every direction, looking postcard perfect with snow capped peaks. A blustery alpine wind swept into the valley and brought a hoard of clouds that swirled around us before evaporating in the noon sun. Here are some of my favourite photos from the summit:

The Swiss flag marks the highest point on the mountain: 2,900 metres (9,500 feet)

Thanks to the family at the summit who snapped this photo for us!

The Swiss-Italian border in the sky

Happy but exhausted hikers at the peak!

Descending down the mountain was a treacherous feat. Both Dave and I had to psych ourselves up to maneuver backwards down a metal ladder that protruded outwardly from the cliff face. As our fragile bodies clung to the metal rungs I told myself over and over again that the bolted on ladders would hold steadfast to the rock. 

The journey down wasn't all glum. Part-way down we spotted this gorgeous creature, apparently called an alpine ibex, and native to the Swiss alps region. We got within ten feet of him and he didn't scare or spook.

The alpine ibex, spotted during our descent

We made it back to our hotel in the early afternoon, and caught a bus down the southern side of the mountain to the small city of Aosta, Italy shortly after. This evening in Aosta we got our first true taste of Italian culture. Dave obsessed about the bidet in our hotel room, watching many how-to videos before daring me to test it out—I declined. For dinner we feasted on a delicious meal of bruschetta, pizza, and pasta on a small outdoor patio, steps from the city square. 

Bruschetta with bocconcini, tomatoes and fresh oregano

Gnocchi with tomato sauce for me, and bacon pizza for Dave

Tomorrow morning we head to Breuil-Cervinia for a two night stay in the shadow of the Matterhorn.

Until then,

Heather